Why do i need seeding




















Get to know your soil and its challenges before you move on to sod or seed. Take a tip from the pros and test your soil ; it's an integral part of any successful lawn project. Test results and recommendations eliminate guesswork with an in-depth look into essentials such as soil pH, organic matter and potential availability of necessary nutrients. With your starting point confirmed, you can fertilize and amend your soil with confidence and improve its ability to support dense, healthy grass.

Examining Options for Sod or Seed Whether you establish your new lawn from sod or seed, all the personal and environmental benefits that natural lawns offer can be yours. Both approaches lead to beautiful, healthy, sustainable lawns, but the methods differ significantly from the start. With sod, a sod farmer does the growing for you. Harvested sod consists of mature grass and a soil layer, held together by netting or severed grass roots. It's sold in ruglike rolls ready to be unfurled, and it comes with a unique set of pros and cons: Advantages of sod Instant results.

Newly installed sod offers immediate gratification. It's not ready for normal lawn traffic, but it instantly gives the look of finished lawn. Fast establishment. Handled and installed properly, new sod generally takes just two to three weeks to root well and become established.

Immediate erosion control. On slopes or areas with erosion problems, sod works as a blanket to help hold soil in place from the start. Flexibility in timing. Sod can be installed anytime in the growing season, except in very high heat.

Sod roots fastest when laid during the period of peak growth for the type of grass involved. Limited weeds. Quality, state-certified sod has few or no weeds. It outcompetes weed seeds that that try to move in early on. Quick traffic turnaround. Once sod roots establish, it's ready for normal lawn traffic, including entertaining, play and pets. Disadvantages of sod High initial cost. Finished sod carries a higher price tag than comparable grass seed coverage.

High labor expense. Improper installation leads to poor rooting, visible seams and failed, unsightly lawns. Effective results may require trained professionals. This method is fast, and results in the seed being placed a maximum of 2 inches apart. Some overseeders drop seed in 3-inch rows which will give a striped appearance to the lawn. Note: Before overseeding, check your lawn for thatch. Aerate several times before broadcasting seed; aeration holes should be spaced not more than inches apart.

Use core-type aerating tines that remove soil plugs for better seed-to-soil contact. After overseeding, give the area a heavy watering right away to wash seed into the aeration holes and help break up the aeration cores on the surface. Remember broadcast seeding requires more grass seed and the germination rate is not as high as with slit-seeding.

Depending on conditions and type of seed, new grass seed will begin to emerge in days after seeding when moisture and soil temperatures are adequate. An overseeded lawn can be fully established in eight weeks or less. Proper watering is critical to successful overseeding. The following is a recommended watering program. The key is care and patience. Proper overseeding will produce a healthier, better-looking lawn that responds better to mowing, fertilizing and watering. An added benefit is increased property value!

The following photographs show a complete renovation that was done using proper overseeding equipment and procedures. Late summer or early fall is the best time to overseed lawns. Soil and atmospheric temperatures are most favorable for optimum seed germination and growth.

With adequate moisture, fertilizer and sunlight, the new seedlings will be well established before cooler fall weather sets in. Also, weed competition is less of a factor at this time, giving the grass seedlings a better environment to grow and develop. Spring overseeding risks the chance of weather-related problems heavy spring rains, unexpected high temperatures and weed competition.

Also, spring seeding may interfere with the application of preemergent crabgrass or broadleaf weed killers; concurrent application of seed and herbicides is generally not recommended because the herbicides may cause poor seedling establishment.

It is best to delay herbicide treatment weeks after new grass seed germinates. If you choose to overseed in the spring, be sure to follow proper seeding and treatment practices.

Midsummer overseeding faces greater chances of disease, heat and drought stress, and weed competition. Proper weed control and adequate irrigation are musts if overseeding is attempted in midsummer. Dormant overseeding involves seeding in late fall or early winter, after soil temperatures are low enough to prevent seed germination.

Note: When overseeding Bermudagrass in southern parts of the U. Bermudagrass and other warm-season grasses need warmer weather to germinate and fully develop. Augustingrass, Centipedegrass. Cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass, Bentgrass and the Fine Fescues, are used primarily in western, northern and eastern areas of the United States.

They tolerate moderate summertime temperatures but will also survive severe cold associated with northern winter conditions. Warm-season grasses, such as Bermudagrass, Centipedegrass and Bahiagrass, are used in the south, southeast, and southwest United States.

Tall Fescues are used extensively in the midsouth and west regions and with the advent of new turf-type Tall Fescues, their use is expanding into other geographic areas as well. For detailed recommendations, contact your lawn care professional or county extension agent. Do you need to start over? See previous illustration above. Note: Whether or not a chemical such as Glyphosate is used, it usually works better to overseed new grass into the old, undisturbed turf, even if it is dead, rather than start with bare dirt.

Overseeding is faster and easier than completely digging up the soil, and it leaves some cover to protect against wind or water erosion of the soil surface. Aerification: The process of improving the movement of air, water and nutrients into or within the soil, usually by removing soil plugs or cores.

Also performed to relieve compaction of soils. Annual grass: Any plant which germinates, matures, produces seed and dies within one growing season. Bahiagrass: A coarse-textured, low-maintenance warm-season grass which is primarily regarded as a clump grass but also spreads by rhizomes.

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